451 smart fortwo

hy y am new in the forum iam from Guatemala central america .y have a 2001 smart
the problem y have the car starts abaut 15 minutes and then shut off y need to wait like 20 minutes and then starts again if you can help me thancks

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you could get a scan gauge 2, a great trip computer that also reads trouble codes and clears them, if needed. if you're getting a trouble code, a local dealer could tell you what needs to be repaired/serviced.

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Luisdanos un poco mas detalles, se apaga despues de caliente, frio, siempre? que, si algo le has modificado, entre mas nos digas mas podemos desechar como el principal problema..

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gracias sato en español te puedo explicar mejor el carro enciende sin ningun problema lo manejo como unos 20 minutos y se me apaga y ya no enciende despues de esperar unos 20 a 30minutos que se enfrie enciende denuevo sin problema y a los 20 min denuevo se apaga modificaciones no tiene ninguna . el problema es que aqui en guatemala no se encuentran partes facilmente , a la espera de tu alluda te agradecere mucho

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lo mejor que puedes hacer es comprar un Scangauge II, este aparato te "lee" los codigos dianosticos del cpu del carro, ademas de darte tambien otra informacion como temperatura, revoluciones, mph o kph.. enfin es bueno tenerlo. En tu caso, al conectarlo te va ha dar varios codigos como anuncio de problemas que el computador CPU ha visto. con estos puedes mirar en varios sitios en el web o atraves de un dealer que significan. Ya sea un mal contacto, una chispa mala, en fin hay varias cosas que puede ser tu problema ya que el sintoma desaparece al enfriar el carro. Yo me hiria por algun contacto a tierra que esta calentandose con el carro handando y accionando algun sistema de prevencion en el CPU cortando electricidad o chispa al motor. De paso tu dices que el carro se apaga.. se apaga electronicamente? hace ruidos como que se queda sin gasolina? o se ahoga como si se le tapara la entrada de aire?

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O compre a un lector de código. Son más baratos que a "scanguage". Creo yo vie uno para $89 en Advanced Auto Parts. Y como dijeron, toma su Smart a un mecánico, ellos lo tienen el equipo para leer los códigos.

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Si, puedes ir a cualquier mecanico pero te cobran por hacer un diagnostico.. Al comprar el Scangauge, haces el diagnostico tu y te quedas con un buen aparato que te brinda cientos de usos mas....

De paso cuando fue la ultima vez que le cambiaste la batteria a la llave? ten en mente que la llave tiene un chip que si la ignicion no detecta su señal, apaga el auto. Trata usar el carro con la otra llave, la segunda que le dan a uno al comprarlo... de pronto esto es el problema. Y por ultimo, Al apagarse el carro, la luz del interior sirve? puede ser un corto en las conecciones de la bateria.

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smart 2001.... a 450 with 698cc turbo engine?
Not sure what the ScanGauge may show or even plug into the OBD port of that vintage.

Evilution FAQ:

"My smart has started cutting out while driving, is there a fix?
The 2 main culprits are loose battery connections or a loose fuse. As most RHD smarts didn't come with a fuse box cover it is easy for the passenger to knock them with their feet. Tighten the battery connection and reseat all the fuses."

see: http://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?id=559#11

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I believe all cars from mid 90s and up have a OBD port..

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Yep... I read somewhere that all cars sold in the USA were supposed to be fitted with an OBD port after 1995... but a 2001 smart was never sold in the USA (unless it was special import) ?

The ScanGauge is not fully compatible with some of the earlier OBD codes; so I have no idea how useful it would be on a 2001 vintage 450.

After discovering the loose battery connection recently, mine now seems to be running leaner from a cold start... that smelly, rich exhaust seems to have cleared out. The exhaust tailpipe is being monitored to see if the black soot clears out... smarts need Volts.

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Yes they have some sort of quick heater for the catalytic system. smart thinks of the environment as soon as you start it!!!

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Yes, I read on one of the UK sites about clicking noises when the engine is cold caused by various heaters warming things up... and drawing on the battery.

The rich and smelly exhaust on a cold start always nagged me that something was not quite right.

We've had some of the coldest mornings in a long time (now winter in tropical Australia), down to 14C (58F)... which really is not cold by most climates. I resorted to turning off the air con for a cold start and waiting a few seconds before turning the key. I need a long trip to top up the battery properly.

Scangauge is showing 12.6V under daylight engine load; 14.3V with throttle off and when night driving with lights on... better than the 11 odd volts before the battery negative terminal was tightened.

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gracias sato por tu alluda le puse el eskan y me dio la info del crankshaft position lo reemplase y ya esta funsionando bien gracias

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gracias sato por tu alluda le puse el eskan y me dio la info del crankshaft position lo reemplase y ya esta funsionando bien gracias
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